Morgan M

by Simon Email

Link: http://www.morganm.com/

This is a restaurant in North London founded this year by Morgan Meunier. He used to be the chef at the Admiralty restaurant Somerset House.

We enjoyed his cooking at the Admiralty and ate there on several occasions.

His new restaurant is more spacious and relaxed than the Admiralty. The staff are very attentive, but also more laid back than at the previous place.

The food was just as good, though.

Morgan comes across as very sincere and dedicated in his cooking.

It's clear when you're eating that he has thought deeply about the combination of flavours, and the emotions you might have as you taste them. It's rather like attending a music concert, in terms of the different sensations and feelings that arise.

This time we had an autumn-themed menu. The food was both comforting and challenging. As a vegetarian I particularly enjoy his "Garden Menu" which is completely vegetarian.

The flavours of my menu were of an autumn wood - moist, sweet and damp. The dishes contained chestnuts, wild mushrooms and pumpkin.

A very nice touch was that Morgan walked around the tables at the end of the meal and engaged the diners in conversation.